Spring is right around the corner and so is camping season!  Every fall, RV campers go through an extensive checklist to ensure their home away from home hibernates successfully through the winter.  The following tips and tricks will guide you out of storage and into a campsite!

Exterior

One of the most common issues for RV’s in winter storage is water intrusion. Be sure to inspect all caulking for cracks and missing sections.  Pay attention around windows, doors, roof vents, air conditioners, and seams. Even the smallest crack will allow water to enter, resulting in damages to flooring, cabinetry, and more.
Operate all awnings and inspect fabric for tears. The spring tension may need to be adjusted if you have difficulty extending the awning. Spring adjustment is dangerous; it is recommended to consult a professional for this process.

Next, it’s time to give your unit a good scrub.  Remember to only use proper brushes and cleaners that will not damage the surfaces. Pay particular attention when cleaning the awning as they’re a pricey part to replace.

After a good washing, take a look at those tires and don’t forget the spare! Check for cracks on the sidewall and between treads.  Then check tire pressure.  Improper inflation and cracked, rotted tires are some of the main causes of blowouts.

Interior

Just like at home, your RV’s interior will probably need a good spring cleaning.  Dust surfaces, sweep floors, and clean windows.  A thorough cleaning will also help you identify leaks you may not have noticed from the outside. Keep an eye out for damp upholstery or linens as well as puddling in cabinets. Don’t forget to change the batteries in your smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.

Appliances

We all know to give the refrigerator, range, and oven a good cleaning.  But your appliances require a little more love than that.  Remove the outside access covers for your water heater and refrigerator, and inspect for any foreign debris such as spider webs and nests. You can apply light air pressure from a compressor to clean the burner area; however, you should never use high pressure up the refrigerator chimney.  Don’t forget to test your appliances before hitting the road as on-site repairs can be costly.

Now it’s time to inspect the water heater.  Remove the drain plug at the bottom of the tank, allowing any sediment to escape with the water. Some models also have an anode rod that is part of the drain plug. With the tank drained check the anode for deterioration and rule out replacement. Inspect the rod and replace it if it is more than 75 percent depleted. Refer to the water heater’s instruction manual for replacement details. Reinstall the drain plug and refill the tank before lighting the burner.

Liquid Propane (LP)

Start out by turning off all LP components. This could include your refrigerator, water heater, and range/oven. Turn the leak detector inside the RV on and then open the valve all the way on the LP tank. Smell inside your RV for leaks or use an electronic leak detector.  Use soapy water to check for leaks around the valve and regulator. If you find a leak, turn off the LP valve immediately and consult with a professional to repair it. Remember, absolutely no smoking, flames, or sparks while completing this step.

Water Lines and Freshwater Tanks

Chances are your RV was winterized with non-toxic antifreeze and you will need to flush the system. Start by adding potable water to your fresh water holding tank.  Once filling has begun, turn on the water pump and open the faucets to purge air to from the lines. Run each faucet until the water runs clear and shows no trace of antifreeze. Inspect all faucets, water heater over pressure safety valve, and the water heater drain plug for leaks.

If your freshwater tanks need to be sanitized, fill the water tank half full. Add a solution of 1/4-cup household bleach and 1 gallon of water for every 15 gallons of tank capacity. Open all the faucets until all air has been bled from the system and the water coming out has the odor of the bleach solution before shutting off the taps. After three to five hours, drain the water system and refill it with fresh water. Run water through all faucets and then drain the system again.

Lastly, take the water heater out of the by-pass mode (if applicable). If the water heater wasn’t bypassed before winterizing the unit, the antifreeze needs to be drained from the water heater tank. Replace any water filter cartridges you removed for storage.

LP Appliances

It’s time to test those LP appliances, so open the valve on your LP tank.  With the LP gas leak detector on, start by lighting a stovetop burner. Of all the appliances run on LP, this is the easiest flame to see.  With visual confirmation of ignition, you’ll know all air in the lines is purged. Now light the other LP fired items. Make sure the water heater is full before igniting.

Battery Basics

While it’s very handy to perform these steps by yourself, when in doubt it’s best to call a professional. Also, be sure to wear the proper personal protective equipment such as safety glasses and latex gloves.  Before getting started, disconnect the shore power and place the main cut off in the off position.

  1. Look for corrosion: clean corroded terminals, connections, and battery trays using hot water and baking soda.
  2. Check battery fluid levels: be careful with wiring if removing the batteries, as positive and negative wires are not often color coded. You can use masking tape and a permanent marker to flag them. Remember that improper battery connections will lead to mass component failure. Water should only be added to lead acid battery(s) after fully charging the battery, unless the water level is already below the plates. The plates need to be covered at all times.  Top fluid levels off with distilled water but pay attention as you don’t want to overfill. Keep the level below the upper case fill ring.
  3. Have a professional complete a load test: batteries must be fully charged before the test otherwise they will fail. If the professional testing the battery refuses to check the state of charge, go elsewhere as the vendor is probably trying to sell new batteries.
  4. Battery replacement: if required always replace multiple battery banks together. Do not add an old battery to a new battery.

Dump Hoses and Waste Tank Valves

Inspect your sewage dump hose. Dump hoses have a limited shelf life and have to be replaced every few years. Verify that the hose is in good condition with no tears or holes otherwise you’ll have a miserable mess on your hands the first time you clear your black and grey water tanks.

After making sure your waste tank is empty, slowly open the waste valves. Remember that over time, valve seals can dry out making the valves difficult to open and close. Slowly working the handle in and out may save you from having to replace the valves. You can also try additives for valve lubrication that can be added to the tanks.  If your tank is not empty, perform this step at a dump station or while hooked up to a sewer connection.

Generators

If you have a generator, you’ll need to start it and check that it is functioning properly.  Many newer generators have a prime function to run the fuel pump prior to starting. If your generator does not have a prime feature, you will have to crank it until it starts. Let the starter rest to cool after about 15 seconds of cranking. Cycle the starter until it runs. Let it run for a short time and check the oil level. Check the air filter to rule out any critters nesting from storage. Check the owner’s manual for any other procedures.

Radiators

Motor home owners will need to perform a radiator inspection.  Hoses need to be replaced about every five years. While they may look fine from the outside, many times they deteriorate inside first. If they then burst without warning and you fail to notice the temperature gauge, severe engine damage may result.

While this is a great checklist for getting your RV ready to hit the road, remember to consult your owner’s manual for the most comprehensive guide to de-winterizing.  Happy Camping!